Two nights on Isla del Sol

Due to some differences and after discussions, Tom and I decided to part ways after Puno. It can be really challenging travelling and spending so much time in the company of one person and it’s not unusual for partnerships not to work out. So as a result of our separation, I decided to head back to Cusco to meet some friends from Huaraz and spend a bit more time there to consolidate a new plan. I stayed for just over a week in the fantastic Kokopelli hostel and not so fantastic Pirwa before departing once again, this time solo to Bolivia. I booked my bus ticket online with Titicaca transport and after some confusion at the ticket office regarding whether I’d actually bought it or not, we finally understood each other and I boarded the bus. Tip: sometimes it’s easier just to book in the terminal. I found the right bay and handed (yeah right) my giant 20kg bag to the man loading everything onto the bus and tried to make sense of what he was urgently trying to tell me in Spanish. It took some time but I got the impression, mainly from physical demonstrations, that he wanted me to keep warm because the bus would be cold and that I should keep my small rucksack close to me at all times to avoid theft. The latter became crystal clear when I ascended onto the upper deck and saw sheets of paper plastered on the walls with written warnings about bags being stolen. As a lone traveller, it put me on edge and I wandered what sorts of characters would board this bus. I decided to tuck my passport into my leggings and place my phone and money into the pouch i wear underneath clothing. After this I kept a close eye on who walked up the stairs and unlike most buses I’d taken, there was a distinct lack of gringos. The majority of passengers were actually cholitas and some of their husbands. I also couldn’t help but notice the sheer quantity of blankets and jumpers they each boarded with, not forgetting their piece of artisan cloth with the mysterious contents unknown to me. It was not until we got moving and night closed in that I realised what the blankets were for: the bus was freezing. I wore leggings, a jumper, hat and thick coat which barely kept me warm. Needless to say it was a long night with very little sleep had. Thankfully as morning came the sun did too and as we pulled into Puno to pick more people up, the bus was beginning to heat up. I was also lucky enough to have a lovely guy from Argentina sat next to me for the remainder of the journey and we got chatting about our travels and places we’d been in the world. It also helped that he was very easy on the eye!

Crossing the Bolivian border was easy for me because I’m from the United Kingdom. I didn’t need to pay or prepare any paperwork in advance, just simply fill out the forms given to me by the bus conductor and provide them to the border police alongside my passport. After no more than ten minutes and with a stamp in my passport, I got back on the bus. It wasn’t for long, however, as true to Bolivian form we soon came across a protest blocking the road. We had to leave the bus, collect all of our bags and walk for ten minutes past the protest as the bus couldn’t get through. Thankfully it was extremely small and peaceful so really nothing to worry about. On the other side of it we were then provided with another bus which then took us to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca.

In Copacabana I met a couple of friends and we bought our boat tickets for Isla del Sol from a man hanging about the bus stop area. We’d decided to head straight to the island instead of spending time in Copacabana because accommodation is more expensive and there’s very little to do there. After some slow service at a café on the waterfront, we were forced to quickly drink the lagers we’d bought in order to board the boat in time. We were in good spirits though as the sun was beaming down and we were excited to be in a new country! The boat was small and the first 20 minutes of the journey involved an elderly Bolivian man discussing in great depth his religious beliefs – in Spanish of course. It was a little uncomfortable but we smiled politely and focused on the scenery around us. Being back on the lake was nice after having parted briefly from it after Puno. It’s enormity was again apparent and it really was sparkling like a sea of diamonds in the intense heat. The distance wasn’t too far but the boat was going slowly so it took us about 2.5 hours to arrive at Challapampa on the North side of Isla del Sol. We disembarked onto the small pier and were greeted by a local who told us it was necessary to buy an entrance ticket. We gave him the money and thanked him before taking a moment to admire our new surroundings which turned out to be absolutely beautiful. There were small sailing boats positioned along the waterfront and plenty of cholitas in red skirts enjoying some relaxation time on the grass next to it. Rustic buildings were set back from the water separated by the grass and a dirt path that disappeared into the section of island jutting out into the lake. We noticed signs on some of the buildings which said ‘hostal’ and wandered slowly for a minute or two to find a place we wanted to settle in for two nights. We chose a hostel to the right of the pier and managed to negotiate a special price with the friendly owner which worked out to the equivalent of about £2 a night – bargain!

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We were given a room at the front of the hostel and overlooking the lake which was perfect for the breathtaking sunset. The ameneties were basic with a small toilet room, separate shower and no kitchen – perfectly fine for only two nights. We wandered back to the main path and bought some snacks and water from a small convenience store before being drawn to the sounds in the main square area. We soon realised there was a religious festival taking place and admired the live music coming from inside the large white tent filled with islanders. Around us were children playing and laughing whilst men in suits sat together in the sun, also enjoying the festivities. It was great to get a glimpse into their traditions and gain a feel for the community atmosphere.

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As the natural lighting began to fade, we strolled back to our hostel and watched the sky change gradually from its recognisable blue to a beautiful shade of pink. The snow capped mountains in the background were illuminated by the setting sun and shades of orange also began to appear. It was the most magical sunset I’ve experienced on my trip and was so tranquil.

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Darkness eventually set in alongside hunger so we ventured out with torches and found a small but busy restaurant with a cosy interior. We shared a bottle of sweet red wine and devoured a plate of trout, rice and vegetables – don’t expect much more than this or soup in Challapampa! It was a pleasant evening and followed by a comfortable night’s sleep, albeit slightly cold at times.

The following day I awoke just after sunrise, although my friend Cam had got up just before and said how beautiful it was. I reluctantly removed myself from under the bedsheets as the room was freezing and got dressed for the day. Outside the islanders were already up and about, carrying various loads, walking their various animals and enjoying breakfast. Cam, Zrinka and I found a restaurant called Restaurant Lago Titicaca and I ordered the desayuno Americano. As expected, a small piece of bread arrived with jam and artificial butter. It wasn’t particularly appetising but on a small island with limited supplies, I wasn’t complaining. It took some time and prompting for my scrambled eggs to arrive and when they did, I was slightly disappointed with the portion size. Regardless, I ate what I was given and thanked the woman serving me.

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Cam and I then set off in search of the path to the south side of Isla del Sol. The main activity for tourists on the island is the walk from one side to the other, whether starting in the north or south. Most people will get a boat from Copacabana to Isla del Sol in the morning, do the walk and then return by boat on the opposite side to which they arrived. There are two routes: the easier but less breathtaking (though still impressive) coastal path and the harder and higher altitude but more rewarding path which is further inland. We decided to walk to the South via the more challenging route and return to the North in the same day via the coastal route; a little different to the norm. The views going up were incredible. We could see deep blue for miles and miles and gorgeous beaches along the way. We also encountered the cluster of Inca ruins which are built like a maze and look out onto the water. We had a lot of fun getting lost in them and discovering new rooms and doorways at every turn!

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The walk itself was slightly challenging at times when the path led us uphill, but this was solely due to the altitude. The weather was incredible with perfectly clear skies and this, combined with the views, kept us in good spirits. After paying at different points along the way to enter new parts of the island, we eventually arrived at Yumani on the south side. Here we paid for the final ticket and passed through under the welcome sign into the main section of the village. There were more habitations here being advertised as hostels and hotels and considerably more restaurants with higher price tags. It became clear that the South side of the island is slightly more commercial and caters to tourists far more than Challapampa. This wasn’t to take away from the beauty of it, but if you’re looking for a more rustic experience I’d recommend staying in the north. Cam and I went in search of cheap food and stumbled upon a small store advertising ‘Hay pan’ (bread here). We were greeted by a very friendly man whose shop it was and we asked for 6 bread rolls. He handed these to us and was then keen to chat to us as much as possible despite our limited Spanish. We understood each other for the most part and mostly commented on the beauty of Isla del Sol. We then thanked him for his kindness and went in search of a sunny lunch spot. We found what we hoped was the coastal path and settled on some grass next to it with incredible views of the lake. We used Cam’s portable cutlery to carve the bread and cut up some avocados which we’d bought in Challapampa. Although basic, it was an extremely peaceful lunch and the avocado fuelled us for the walk back to the north.

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We spent the first 30 minutes of the walk back uncertain about our chosen path. It was in no way signposted and we were guessing our route whenever a small crossroad appeared. Thankfully, as we entered a patch of land belonging to a local, we asked him if we were going the right way and he assured us we were. We continued in good spirits as it was still only early afternoon and the weather remained on point for us. Much of the walk involved passing through villages which was nice because we’d not seen them on the path from Challapampa. There were a considerable amount of pigs on the way and to my surprise I even saw half a leg of one on the path…not for the squeamish.

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We must have been an hour from Challapampa when we came across a beach and thought we’d treat ourselves to a rest stop. The sound of the water washing up against the shore was relaxing and we observed a boat docking before the people inside it disembarked and carried huge loads of mystery materials on their backs to a nearby house. It was seriously impressive! After watching this unfold and devouring our pre bought chocolate bars, we embarked on the final part of the walk.

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It was at this point that we did get confused and ended up losing the path and clambering up a steep rock face with plants growing from it. We passed a couple of alpaca’s on the way who seemed utterly baffled by our appearance and seemed to be judging us. We did have a general sense of the direction we needed to go in so followed our instincts and continued. After about 25 minutes we saw a path in the distance and aimed for it. Successfully navigated, we finished the walk with the sun still shining and returned to the hostel.

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That evening we wandered back to the main square where more festivities were taking place. There were women in traditional dress holding hands and dancing in circles to a live band. It wasn’t long before we were encouraged to join them and we spent a good 20 minutes dancing! We were grateful for their hospitality and thanked them for the good time. We enjoyed another dinner that evening of fish, rice and vegetables and went to bed.

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We awoke early the following morning and purchased our tickets for the first boat returning to Copacabana. We bought some tasty sandwiches from a small stall opposite the public toilets and ticket office and enjoyed these by the waterfront. A group of brown piglets ran past us and were shortly followed by a little girl who was understandably rather excited by them. They were pretty cute. At 8:30am we boarded the boat, waved a goodbye to some of the island inhabitants and enjoyed a top deck ride back to Copacabana. Once back we bought a bus ticket from one of the numerous companies advertising their services and headed to our next destination: La Paz!

6,803 Responses to “Two nights on Isla del Sol

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