Uros floating islands, Amantani and Taquile

We said ciao to Cuzco and hola to Puno, the final Peruvian stop before Bolivia. The bus ride there was a little different to the more luxury Cruz del Sur journeys we’d experienced. We made stops in remote villages and halfway through, in the middle of a dusty road, were ordered to leave the bus, collect our belongings and step onto a different one. There were no questions asked and we just hoped we’d eventually arrive in Puno; that’s what you get for 20 soles!

We did make it to the bus station about 10 hours later and caught a taxi to Cozy Hostel. It was too late to book a tour for the following day so we just chilled and wandered around some of Puno, although there really doesn’t seem to be a lot to see in the town itself.

After two sleeps in Cozy and a frustrating lack of hot water showers, we were picked up for the 2 day, 1 night Amantani tour. It began with a short bus ride to the lake where our boat was waiting to first take us to the Uros floating islands. We piled in and settled into our seats before being serenaded with a man playing guitar and panpipes. He did a few songs which weren’t overly enjoyable, but we were happy to offer a small tip. Ruben, our tour guide, was a character. He always seemed flustered and wasn’t aware of the concept of personal space. Regardless, he was pleasant enough and willing to answer questions. From the front of the boat, he explained in both Spanish and English the layout of the day ahead and then let us sit back, relax and enjoy the slow and gentle boat ride to the Uros floating islands.

The Uros floating islands are home to the Uros people and are made using dried totora reeds which grow in the lake itself. The reeds form a layer called khili which enables the islands to be supported and from these, ropes and sticks are used to keep the islands in place. We arrived at one small island belonging to a family and were ushered off the boat and asked to sit in a semi circle whilst the president of the community gave us a demonstration of how the islands are built and maintained. She then brought round a bowl filled with catfish swimming around in water – the main food source for floating island residents. It was also interesting to learn about the time and effort that goes into the numerous arts and crafts the women make, in particular the beautiful tapestries which take a month to create. The president passed some round for us to see and we were impressed with the detail. After the demonstrations we were given half an hour to explore the small island. I looked inside the houses and saw clothes strewn on the beds, walls and floor. It was basic accommodation and Tom had to be careful stepping in as the doorways were so small; the Peruvians don’t generally grow to 6ft 4! After having a snoop and politely saying ‘no gracias’ to the ladies wanting to sell us their crafts, we boarded a boat also made from dried totora reeds. The president and another lady hopped on with us and paddled us to another nearby island. It was a pleasant ride but its purpose was solely touristic and they were keen to take the money from us as we arrived at the destination. Still, it was a unique experience and the women were extremely friendly. We spent about 25 minutes on the next island getting our passports stamped and sampling some freshly made fried bread – not the most appetising! It was then time to board our boat to the final stop of the day: Isla Amantani. 

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As the boat pulled up to the dock, we saw groups of women dressed in large colourful skirts with white shirts tucked into them and vibrant waist belts keeping everything in place. They were also wearing long black head scarves which I would later discover are incredibly difficult to keep on your head – it’s all about the posture. The men were also gathering to greet us and were dressed smartly in white shirts, black waistcoats and black trousers. It was interesting arriving to an island draped so heavily in tradition that we noticed and felt it before even disembarking from the boat. When we did get off, we were divided into small groups and mine was a non Spanish speaking group which seemed strange considering none of us would be able to translate. Ruben then took us to a very smiley lady called Mama Anselma and she would be our host for the night. We did introductions and were then led along a cobbled path through beautiful surroundings to Mama Anselma’s house. It was positioned close to the waterfront with nothing blocking the view so that when sunset came later that evening, I felt like i had the best view on the island. She let us settle into our rooms and use the toilet which required a bucket of water being thrown at it to create the flush. We then chatted as a group for a bit whilst admiring the views before Mama Anselma politely ushered us into the dining room for food. Lunch consisted of salad and a variety of potatoes, not surprising considering there are over 4000 types in Peru. She also served us munya herb tea which is supposed to be a great digestive. Unfortunately for me it was too much and I spent the rest of the afternoon feeling pretty poorly whilst the rest of the group climbed up to a nearby viewing point to watch the sunset.

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That evening Mama Anselma served us dinner and then gathered us into one of the bedrooms for some dress up. Her and her daughter helped the girls into the bright skirts, waistbands and shirts and we were all given headwear. Tom was then helped into a large poncho and a warm hat made from alpaca knitwear. We embraced the outfits, took some photos and set off to the party the island was hosting that night. We carried flashlights as, not surprisingly, there weren’t any street lights. The cobbles were hard to navigate in the dark but Mama Anselma was a pro and walked briskly without any need for light. We took some time along the way to appreciate the stars above us which shone brightly in the clear night sky; we were especially in awe of the milky way.

The party was brilliant. There was a live band playing traditional Peruvian music and we all held hands and danced awkwardly in circles. Everyone was smiling, having a good time and consuming beer and some local kids even came along. At first they attempted to look cool and uninterested but soon enough got involved with the rest of the party. It lasted about two hours and after our fair share of dances, Mama Anselma led us back to her house and we enjoyed a comfortable and cosy night of sleep on Isla Amantani.

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The following day we awoke at about 6:00am and were served our final meal from Mama Anselma, this time pancakes and more of the munya tea. We then packed up and said our goodbyes and thank you’s and Tom and I presented Mama Anselma with some avocados. We chose these because fresh fruit and vegetables are in short supply on the island and Mama Anselma was over the moon with the gift. Ruben, who had been staying with us, led us back to the boat via the beach which was a beautiful morning walk in the sunshine. We met with the rest of the group who had been staying with other host families and set off to our next destination: Isla Taquile.

Once on Isla Taquile, we walked uphill to the main square which was difficult considering the altitude, but once up we could admire the views of Lake Titicaca. We were given time to explore the church, market and small snack stores before Ruben took us on a walk to our lunch spot. It was an easy and pleasant downhill stroll with great views of the lake and there were some locals selling their crafts along the way. We eventually arrived at a family house which would be our lunch stop and sat down at the long table with the crockery set up ready for us to eat from. Before tucking in, we were given a shampoo making demonstration by one of the family members. It was really interesting to watch and the smell was amazing. He also demonstrated the weaving process for garments and Ruben talked about hats the men wear on the island, with us learning that different colours and ways of wearing them representing different relationship status’. Lunch was then served which consisted of soup and then fresh fish or an omelette. It was delicious and even more satisfying because of the incredible views.

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After lunch we headed back to the boat which would then take us back to Puno. We’d had a great time on the 2 day, 1 night tour and I’d definitely recommend doing this over the half or full day tours because the home stay was a brilliant experience.

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